The Story of the Wonder Pot
August 5, 1943 has two significant events: first fireworks over Moscow to salute the first wins in the Second World War, and the wedding of my grandparents Dora and David. Coincidentally, it also took place in Moscow. She was 21, he was 20 and they knew each other from their school days in Odessa. My tiny fearless grandma rode trains through the war zone to reunite with the love of her life. It was such a wild idea, but she was determined. And it paid off in over 60 years of happiness.
Late summer has always been the happiest time of the year. Another month of school holidays ahead, festivities began in July with my parents’ anniversary, then my cousin’s birthday, my grandparents’ anniversary, finally my own birthday, and last but not least my other grandparents’ birthdays.
For many many years Baba (Grandma) Dora whipped up her signature cake for all and any celebrations. Short, quick, and decisive, she would mix it together in-between things, let it rest, bake it, and voila it would be there on the table in all its’ round, glossy brown glory. Birthday, well-visits, tea with colleagues, holidays with children — this unassuming cake was always a hit, and a marker of a good day!
The cake itself is a variation of a soda bread, or afternoon loaf, or nut bread, or honey cake, or something like that. There isn’t exact history or recipe left. I think once my Baba got the hang of it, it was easy for her to put it together, and the ingredients were always on hand. She called it “pryanik” which is like a ginger bread, I think because of the honey in it, not exactly accurate, but the name stuck.
The most interesting part about the cake is the dish in which it was made. It is called “the wonder oven”, and was a staple in Soviet kitchens, since many of them didn’t have ovens. Originally it was created for a one burner kerosine stove, so it had to be light & small not to tip over.
The wonder oven, pot, or “the Wonder” for short looks like a hollow bagel, the one you scoop out in vain desire to ingest fewer carbs, with two parts that fit one into the other. The parts have little holes that you can adjust to let the steam out, or trap it in. The whole in the middle is for the gas burner to heat up the dish evenly. Quite a great gadget. In my home we used it to make cakes and puffs for eclairs. I know people roasted meat and vegetables in it too. My grandma has one, and my mom. I sadly didn’t inherit this wonderful contraption.
But one time I worked at the synagogue and told this story to my rabbi. He raised his eyebrows and exclaimed joyfully: of course! “Sir Pele” (wonder-pot in Hebrew)! When I was a student in Israel in the 70’s, he continued, I lived in the dorms and had a small two-burner stove. And I cooked many happy meals in Sir Pele. Aaaah. It was almost like hearing about a relative turning up in the exotic country. My grandma’s wonder pot in Israel, awith my rabbi, out of places & people!
It took me a few years to master the cake, especially without the wonder, fun fact I make it in the Bundt cake dish that same very rabbi gave me, making it full wondrous circle, just like the cake itself. But I think I did it. I am much taller and slower than my Baba Dora, but I think she would have been proud of me and my pryanik cake. I for once always dream of being her and having a marriage as exemplary as hers and Grandpa David’s!
Happy Anniversary Dora & David, you memory IS a blessing, we are celebrating today with your pryanik and your love.
Dora’s Pryanik
The Magic Ingredients
- 1 cup kefir + 1 spoon of sour cream
- 1 stick margarine
- 2 tablespoons honey
- generous amount of walnuts & raisins
- 1 teaspoon baking soda
- 3 eggs
- 3/4 cups sugar
- 2 cups flour
- 2 tablespoons oil
- oil and flour (or crumbs) for the cake dish
- In advance take out 1 cup of whole milk kefir. Add a spoon of sour cream to it. Let sit.
- Melt 1 stick of margarine. Add 2 heaped tablespoons of honey.
While warm, mix in a good amount of walnuts and raisins into the margarine-honey mixture. While warm — is how my Grandma said it, I nearly hear her voice, it is really moving.
Add one teaspoon of baking soda in kefir — it will bubble like crazy and grow in size. Mix it in with the margarine mixture.
Separately beat 3 eggs and 3/4 cup of white sugar. Mix in with the rest.
Let sit for 15–30 minutes. I’m not sure why, since the chemical reaction already took place, and there is no yeast or lavening taking place. But I’m a stickler here. Grandma said rest — it will rest. It does become frothy in the end.
- Slowly fold in 2 cups of flour. I don’t think you can overmix it, but I stop once it’s all mixed together.
- Finally add 2 tablespoons of oil. The batter will have a sour cream consistency and will look glossy. It’s always light brown/beige in color, darker or lighter depending on the honey.
- Warm up the oven to 425F (220C).
- Spray with oil and flour (or powder with crumbs) a cake dish, I use the bundt one. I suspect it can be made in a loaf pan, or even as muffins, but yet again, if it ain’t round, it’s not cutting it for me.
The batter should rest for another 10–15 minutes, but it’s exactly the time for the oven to heat up.
Bake at 425F for 30 minutes, turn off the oven and let it rest for another 10–15 minutes.
It comes out very pretty and glossy, but I always flip it.
My Baba Dora always had a fear of the cake not rising. She would talk to it, and pass on comments, it was a ritual of sorts Baba vs. pryanik! I dunno, it honestly always rises, maybe American soda & kefir are very poignant! The color of the cake is always rich brown, lighter or darker depending on the honey, and fruit & nuts are perfectly suspended in the cake.
Cool it down, if you have that willpower (I don’t) and enjoy with tea, kefir or by itself. It doesn’t really become stale, but I usually gobble it down, way before it has any chance to. Make my Baba’s pryanik, and honor her memory, she deserves it!
