The Story of Heroic Latkes

Latkes are synonymous with Jewish holiday cuisine: see Hanukkah, think Latkes, think Latkes and you immediately get Hanukkah!

As is often the case with American Jewish holiday food, it’s just a regular side dish back in the “old country”, my Mom used to make it quite often. Moreover, I come from the region known as “potato capital of Russia” and we cook and eat potatoes many different ways. Latkes, however, are traditionally Belarusian. There are many variations of the dish, but the most common one is called “draniki” or shredders because you must shred or grate potatoes first to make them. They got widespread both in Eastern Europe and traveled to America for a very simple reason: they are so cheap to make. Potatoes, onions, oil – these simple ingridients could be found even in the poorest households and hardest of times. They became a Hanukkah staple of course because we cook food in oil to honor the miracle of menorah candelabra staying lit for 8 nights on one measly jar of oil.

While I pride myself on being a good cook, there are a few recipes I have a hard time conquering, and latkes is one of them. In addition to being soggy, burnt, or falling apart these pesky pancakes involve types of kitchen labor I dislike: peeling potatoes & grating. You are also supposed to squeeze the mixture through a towel or a dishcloth — too messy, and then I have to wash that designated towel. No, thank you! Ain’t nobody got time for that! I’ve given up, and made them from hash-brown mix, or fried store-bought frozen variety. But the American latkes simply don’t taste just right. I like them more potato-pancake-y than fritter-y. I also enjoy a pronounced fried onion flavor not just plain potato. So this morning I woke up determined to create my own version, true to the taste of my childhood, yet labor-unintensive. And it worked. So without further ado here is my version of latkes — holiday draniki.

Lazy Latkes

The Magic Ingridients

• 4 medium potatoes
• 1 medium onion (add more or less depending on how strong the onion flavor you like, I like it quite oniony)
• 1 egg
• 2–3 spoons of flour or matzo meal
• salt, pepper, your fave herbs to taste
• lots of oil for frying
• Sour cream, apple sauce, ketchup, whatever rocks your boat to serve

Minimalist I know

The Method

Wash potatoes well.

If you so desire, you can peel them. I never desire that, I just clean them well and chop them onto rough chinks.

Peel the onion & chop it roughly.

Takes one minute

Now, here is my know-how — I use a little chopper thingie to prep my veggies. People use food processors, but they are too clunky & a pain to wash. And you have to store it for the rest of the year. This thing is simple, easy to clean, and hassle-free. Of course, if you don’t have eith you can always grate it on a box grater, I’m afraid of them.

So-so easy

It took me maybe four loads. Chop them pretty well.

Ready!

I had my colander handy so I drained the mixture, but it’s an optional step. It’s not that liquidy, and the starch is good for latkes.

Final prep step, really

Add one egg, a teaspoon of salt, pepper, and whatever spices you like.

I like Herbs de Provence, but any will do, or no herbs at all.

Add 2–3 tablespoons of flour, it should get to the right consistency: not too liquidy & not too dry. Start with two, and then see.

Mix well.

That sizzling, you can almost hear it through the screen!

Pour a hearty amount of oil, an inch maybe?

Heat it up really well on high.

Spoon out the mixture, ice cream scoop for even-sized latkes.

Flaten them on the pan, but not too thin.

So shiny!

Cook for a minute, a minute & a half on medium-high.

Flip & cook for another minute.

I don’t like them very fried, so I keep on flipping till they reach the color I like.

Dry on a paper towel.

This recipe yields enough for a family of four, of course, double it for a bigger crowd!

I only eat it with sour cream, as I’m used to. It’s a savory dish for me, which is complemented best by a cold sour dollop of cream. If you grew up with apple sauce by all means!

My kids eat it with ketchup, which is a bit of a heresy, but when you think of it, it’s essentially hash browns, so nothing wrong with ketchup.

It is very tasty with lox or red fish roe/caviar.

Can never go with dill as a garnish.

Like I said in the very beginning it’s a great side dish for meat, fish, or anything you would eat french fries or potatoes with!

For one person, you can easily whip up a batch from one potato, a quarter onion, and a little egg in like 15 minutes for breakfast like I did today.

Enjoy & Happy Hanukkah!